Potassium

It is well-known that Australian soils are low in phosphorus. What is not so well-known is that many of our soils are also low in potassium. As a result, the animal manures that we increasingly use on our gardens in place of chemical fertilisers are also low in potassium. This has led to an increase in the incidence of plant diseases. Although potash could never be described as a fungicide, its correct use can certainly minimise diseases such as blackspot, rust and powdery mildew. These appear most visibly on the leaves and fruit of affected plants, but can affect any part.

Potassium takes part in more than 40 enzyme actions which help control many plant functions. Of potassium's multiple roles within the plant, one important one is its work in building cellulose, a component of plant cell walls.
If conditions are suitable, a fungus spore will germinate after landing on a host plant and form a tiny root system known as a haustoria. This produces an organic chemical, designed to break down the cellulose barrier of the cell wall and allow the fungus to reach the sap stream, upon which it feeds. If the cell wall is thin, this is achieved with relative ease and the fungus flourishes while the host plant suffers. If the cell wall is thick, the fungal spore is unable to penetrate the cell wall and it eventually dies before it can reach the life-giving sap of the host plant.

When using organic fertilisers, look at the analysis on the back of the bag - if it contains less than 3% potassium, you should add some to it. About 10% sulphate of potash will usually do the trick. Potash can be applied pure, at a rate of 15g per square metre, for a quick fix.

For plants that are particularly susceptible to disease, such as roses, it's a good idea to apply about 150g of sulphate of potash to each bush at 3-4 monthly intervals.

Sulphate of potash is known to improve the quality and the colour of flowers, probably because of the increased enzyme activity. It also enhances the formation of proteins and sugars, probably because it influences photosynthesis, the process by which these sugars are made.

In frost-prone areas, plants treated with potash are better able to withstand the frost because of the higher cellulose content in the cell walls. Plants with slender stems and large flower heads such as Iceland poppies and Gerberas will hold their heads erect if adequate levels of potash are used.

Flower reproduction

The organs of a plant serving sexual reproduction are flowers. Their final product is seed. A flower is a rather complex structure formed by the flower axis that is usually transformed into the receptacle and the perianth. The perianth consists of calyx and corolla. The calyx is made up by he sepals, the corolla by the petals, stamens and carpels. If calyx and corolla cannot be distinguished or if the calyx is missing, it is spoken of an incomplete flower or perigon. The androecium is the totality of the male reproductive organs. It comprises the stamens. Each stamen consists of a filament and an anther. The female reproductive organs, the gynoecium, include the carpels. Carpels are structures that are made up from an ovary and a stigma and that contain one or more ovules. One or more carpels may be combined to a pistil (ovary, style, stigma), the gynoecium as a whole. Taxonomical flower features are the flower symmetry, the way in which the carpels are fused and the resulting position of the ovules, also called placentation, and the position of the ovary. Flowers that contain both androecium and gynoecium are called androgynous or hermaphroditic. If both male and female flowers live on one plant it is called monoecious. Plants with male and female flowers borne on separate plants are termed dioecious.

Composting

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Lawn that just loves a cold climate

For a lawn that just loves the Blue Mountains

EMPIRE™ Turf Characteristics & Info
EMPIRE™ ZOYSIA®
Zoysia japonica



Aesthetics
Eye catching dark green colour
Luxurious soft-to-the-touch feel
Fine, tight leaf blade growth
Great autumn / winter colour
Early spring green up (if dormant)
Small leaf blade (5-7mm). Well proportioned to shrinking lot sizes
Functionality
Grows in clay and sandy soil types
Durable and robust
Vigorous re-growth from underground rhizomes
Rapid injury recovery
Good resistance to insects and diseases (especially lawn grub)
Moderate to good shade tolerance
Climatic
Grows Australia wide
Thrives in extreme heat and humidity
Excellent cold hardiness
Drought tolerant due to deep root system
Environmental
Low water use due to deep root system
Reduced fertiliser requirements
Less insecticide, herbicide and fungicide usage
Maintenance
Cut between 25mm and 50mm every 7 to 21 days in the warmer months, depending on frequency of fertiliser
Requires less fertiliser than other lawns
Easy weed control, as EMPIRE™ is good at out competing weeds, and is tolerant to common herbicides




"EMPIRE™ ZOYSIA Turf– It just keeps looking good"
Probably the hardest lawn in the world to wear out. Only the better Buffalo varieties have more shade tolerance. Almost indestructible rolls or slabs. With such little mowing required, it is the ideal lawn for slopes.
Ozbreed is pleased to introduce EMPIRE™ ZOYSIA, a selected cultivar of Zoysia japonica, chosen specifically for its ability to reduce production costs while demonstrating very desirable growth characteristics. Reduced production costs are achieved by EMPIRE™'s rapid expansion rate, reproduction from rhizomes, and its natural chemical resistance for easier weed control. Unlike other Zoysia grasses, EMPIRE™ is not too slow. In fact compared to other Zoysias lawns, EMPIRE™ is super fast, however EMPIRE™ still requires less mowing than Couch, Kikuyu, and Buffalo turf.
EMPIRE™ demonstrates superior dark green color, low thatch build up due to its wide bladed leaf (compared to other Zoysias) and open growth habit, natural chemical resistance to MSMA, 2,4-D, and Fusillade II, and good drought tolerance. EMPIRE™ was discovered in Brazil, and unlike other Zoysia varieties, has proven its ability to thrive in hot, humid conditions as well as colder climates. EMPIRE™ has performed well in sandy and clay soil types with aggressive growth from its runners and rhizomes, but can be mowed with a standard rotary mower due to its broader leaf and open growth habit. It requires less maintenance and mowing than other grasses, and is a very efficient water user. This versatile turf grass thrives in all climatic regions of Australia, from Darwin, to Tasmania, from Sydney to Perth, and would even survive in places where the temperature drops to 20 degrees below 0.
Information on Common Zoysia (compared to EMPIRE™)

Zoysia grass is extremely drought tolerant. Although it does turn straw colored under severe drought conditions, it has the capacity to respond to subsequent irrigation or rainfall. Its water requirements are similar to those of Couch grass. The leaf blades of Zoysia grass are among the first to roll under drought conditions, thus it tends to conserve moisture more effectively than other species. Zoysia grass also has a deep root system allowing it to more effectively extract water from greater soil depths. EMPIRE™ remains looking good in dryer conditions than other Zoysias. EMPIRE™ not only survives drought, but keeps looking great for longer.
Zoysia grass is nearly as salt tolerant as Bermuda grass. It is widely grown along sandy seashores where drainage is adequate. Zoysia grass does not tolerate poorly drained soils whether they are saline or otherwise, until now. EMPIRE™ ZOYSIA does well in most soil types, including heavy poor draining soils.

Zoysia grasses are among the most wear tolerant turf grasses. However, their slow rate of growth gives them very poor recuperative potential. Until now. EMPIRE™ has a great recovery rate. EMPIRE™ has changed the way people look at Zoysia.


Specifications
Winter Colour Dormant in Colder areas (e.g. Canberra), Good in Sydney, Perth, Brisbane, Adelaide, etc.
Hot Weather Tolerance Excellent / thrives in hot humid and desert areas
Cold Tolerance Excellent. You would have to go to the top of Mt Kosciusko to find a place in Australia where EMPIRE ™ won't live.

Shade Tolerance
Moderate to good, only better Buffalo varieties have more
Wear

Resistance
Excellent
Salt Tolerance Excellent / thrives near coastal areas
Mowing Height 25mm to 50mm / can be mowed 12mm to 25mm when maintained like a bowling green.
Recovery from Injury Excellent / runners and rhizomes fill in damaged areas
Use Lawns / residential, commercial, sports, parks, roadsides
Root Structure Fine, deep, massive, rhizomes spread underground
Drought Tolerance Excellent once established
Pest resistance Excellent lawn grub resistance
NOTE: Empire is more lawn grub resistant than other turf types, but this does not mean it is immune to lawn grub. If symptoms similar to lawn grub are present, consult with your lawn care professional.
Texture Wide, soft, more open than most Zoysias, finer than Buffalo

Mechanicals
Internode Length 30-35 mm Leaf Width 5-7 mm
Internode Diameter 2.5-3.5 mm Shoot Density 32 per dm2

"EMPIRE™ ZOYSIA Turf– It just keeps looking good"

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Composting

- Posted by Zeal Property Maintenance P/L from iPad.Composting

What is composting?
Composting is nature’s own recycling program. In time, organisms will break down the ingredients listed below into rich, dark crumbly compost - nature’s own nutrient-rich fertiliser.

How does composting work and how long does it take?
Natural composting, or decomposition, occurs all the time in nature. Home composting generally takes two months or more. The more you turn and mix the contents - adding air in the process - the more rapid the composting action will be.

The right conditions include
the right ratio of nitrogen to carbon - equal amounts of ‘greens’ (kitchen scraps) for nitrogen and ‘browns’ (fallen leaves and woody material) for carbon
the right amount of water (feels like a damp sponge)
good drainage (to remove excess moisture)
enough oxygen (turned often)
What can you compost at home?
Vegetable and fruit scraps
Fallen leaves
Grass clippings
Finely chipped branches
Used vegetable cooking oil
Tea leaves, tea bags
Coffee grounds
Vacuum cleaner dust
Egg shells
Sheets of newspaper
Paper bags
Shredded paper
What can’t you compost?
Metal, plastic, glass
Meat and dairy products (attract rodents)
Large branches
Bones
Plant bulbs (need specialised treatment)
Droppings of meat-eating animals (e.g. dogs)
Grubs in your compost?
Sometimes in compost bins there are many segmented brown grubs. These are the larvae of the beneficial Soldier Fly. They are not pests, nor will they cause health problems.

Mulches
Mulches can prevent up to 73% evaporation loss and they are one of the cheapest and easiest ways to make the most of water in the garden.
The best mulch is a well-rotted compost which will also improve the soil structure and stimulate the biological life of the soil. Place the mulch away from the trunk to prevent collar rot.
Do not apply mulch more than 75-100 mm in thickness or water may not easily penetrate into the soil.